Truong Son

Sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes (Com Lam) from Northwest Vietnam can be served with grilled fish or smoked meat. Photo: Truong Son

From a handful of sticky rice grown in the mountains, fresh bamboo tubes, and a glowing fire, this simple dish has accompanied the people of Northwest Vietnam through difficult times, eventually becoming a specialty imbued with the "spirit" of the mountains and forests, captivating tourists.

A quick meal in the fields.

My grandfather, a man who spent his entire life connected to the mountains and forests, used to tell me that in the old days, mountain people relied on the forest for their livelihood, surviving countless seasons of famine thanks to it. When going to the fields or forests to cultivate crops, their only belongings were a machete, a water bottle, a little sticky rice they grew themselves, and a box of matches. Without pots and pans, meals were prepared right by a makeshift fire in the middle of the forest.

At mealtime, they would gather dry firewood to light a fire, put rice into fresh bamboo tubes, add a little water, and place them on the glowing embers. When the outer layer was charred, the aroma of bamboo mingled with the scent of sticky rice, marking the end of their hurried lunch, ready to return to work. That simple meal was enough to warm their stomachs and give them the strength for a long day of labor in the mountains.

From that simple cooking style,sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubesIt emerged as a natural adaptation of the mountain people to the harsh living conditions. Over the years, as life gradually improved, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes was no longer just a meal to stave off hunger, but this dish of rice cooked in bamboo tubes is still preserved and cherished as a memory of a difficult time, of the strong bond between people and the vast mountains and forests.

People in Bản Ít village, Mường La commune, Sơn La province, make sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes using traditional Tan sticky rice. Photo: Trường Sơn

Simple yet requires skill.

Sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes (Com Lam) is not complicated in terms of ingredients. All you need is good quality glutinous rice, usually the round-grained, fragrant variety called "nếp tan," soaked in water for about 2-3 hours. The rice is then placed into bamboo tubes (such as those made from reeds, bamboo, or other similar materials), with enough water added, and then cooked over a low fire.

However, making delicious bamboo-cooked rice requires patience and experience. The cook must rotate the bamboo tube constantly, carefully controlling the fire to ensure the rice cooks evenly from the inside out, neither undercooked nor burnt. For large bamboo tubes, cooks often line them with wild banana leaves or dong leaves to prevent the rice from sticking and to maintain its beautiful round shape. For smaller bamboo tubes, the thickest, most tender section must be selected; when the charred outer layer is peeled off, the thin, ivory-white membrane remains intact, enveloping the fragrant, sticky rice.

Five-colored sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes in Thai ethnic culture.

In Northwest Vietnam, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes (com lam) is a part of the lives of many ethnic groups, but the Thai people are considered the community that elevated this dish from a quick meal in the mountains to a unique culinary cultural value. In ceremonial feasts, offerings, or important occasions in the village, com lam is always present as an indispensable part.

Especially during festivals, New Year celebrations, and housewarming parties, the Thai people often make five-colored sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes. The rice consists of five colors: white, green, yellow, red, and purple, symbolizing the five elements and the harmony between humans and the earth, mountains, and forests.

The white color is derived from pure mountain-grown glutinous rice. The green and purple colors are created from the juice of crushed forest leaves. The yellow color comes from the flowers of the *Bó Phôn* tree or wild turmeric, while the red color is dyed from the juice of the *Tô Mộc* tree or ripe gac fruit. After soaking in the colors, the rice is placed in bamboo tubes with the soaking liquid and then roasted over hot coals. When the tubes are split open, the rice slices reveal vibrant colors, soft and chewy while retaining the natural sweetness of the glutinous rice.

Besides being visually appealing, the five-colored sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes also showcases the skill and meticulousness of Thai ethnic women. Each color represents a wish for a prosperous life and a bountiful harvest. Therefore, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes is not just a dish, but has become a cultural culinary symbol of the Northwest highlands.

Five-colored sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes is a special dish in the traditional Thai ethnic feast. Photo: Truong Son

Local specialties that keep tourists coming back.

Nowadays, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes is not only found in the kitchens of traditional stilt houses but has also become a familiar dish on the menus of many restaurants and eateries catering to tourists. Along the roads, in markets, or at tourist destinations, the sight of steaming bamboo tubes of sticky rice cooking over glowing charcoal stoves has become commonplace.

Ms. Lo Hai Yen, from Na Si village, Chieng Mung commune, said that she started making sticky rice in bamboo tubes as a livelihood, starting from a familiar family dish. Each tube of sticky rice is sold for 15,000 to 20,000 VND, which suits consumer preferences.

"Every day I make between 100 and 300 bamboo tubes of sticky rice to sell at the market and supply to other customers. During the tourist season, the amount I produce is even more," Ms. Yen shared.

InTa Xua- A famous tourist destination in Son La, almost every eatery and roadside stall sells sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes (com lam). Many establishments vacuum-pack it for tourists to buy as souvenirs. When eaten on the spot, the sticky rice is grilled over a charcoal fire and served with sesame and peanut salt, shredded pork, or smoked dried meat, creating a complete culinary experience amidst the misty mountains and the characteristic cold of the highlands.

Ms. Giang Thi Phuong, owner of a local specialty restaurant in Dinh Gio area, Ta Xua commune, said that she sells 50-100 vacuum-sealed packages of sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes with peanuts and sesame dipping sauce to tourists every day. Many customers also buy smoked meat as souvenirs. The business of selling sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes, smoked meat, and other Northwest specialties has brought a considerable income to her family.

Ms. Vu Nhat Phuong Anh, a tourist from Hanoi, shared: “Every time I come to Ta Xua, I always enjoy sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes and buy some to take home for my relatives. The chewy and fragrant taste of the mountain sticky rice is very distinctive, as if bringing the essence of the mountains and forests to the city.”

From hurried meals in the fields to a tourist specialty, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes (com lam) is a vivid testament to the creativity and adaptability of the mountain people. Each tube of sticky rice is not just a dish, but also a story about life, culture, and the warmth of the people of Northwest Vietnam – a simple flavor that anyone who has tasted it will find hard to forget.