Nestled beside the tranquil Da River, amidst the majestic mountains of Quynh Nhai commune, Son La province, the temple dedicated to Nang Han has long been a spiritual anchor and a source of cultural pride for the Thai ethnic group and the people of the region. The temple is not only a place of traditional religious worship but is also closely associated with the legend of Nang Han – the goddess of the ethnic groups of Northwest Vietnam.
According to historical records and folk legends of the Thai people, Lady Han was the daughter of a poor family in Lang village (now Muong So commune, Phong Tho district, Lai Chau province). Faced with foreign invaders invading the village, causing suffering and oppression, Lady Han disguised herself as a man and rallied the young men to unite against the invaders. She led the uprising of the resilient people of 16 Thai regions, defeating the northern invaders.
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Statue of Lady Han at the temple in Quynh Nhai commune, Son La province.
Returning victorious on the 30th day of the Lunar New Year, she and her soldiers rested and bathed by the stream to celebrate their victory and welcome the new year. Where she bathed, the sky suddenly shone with a radiant light, and a multicolored cloud appeared to welcome her to heaven. To show their respect and gratitude for her great contributions, the people of 16 Thai provinces, including Chien Province (Quynh Nhai Province), built a temple to Lady Han, worshipping her during festivals and New Year celebrations. They also hold a hair-washing ceremony on the afternoon of the 30th day of the Lunar New Year every year to pray for her protection, bestowing health, love, happiness, peace in their villages, and a bountiful harvest.
Over the years, the Lady Han Temple has been located within the Quynh Nhai Cam Lo Tu Spiritual and Cultural Space (Quynh Nhai commune, Son La province). Situated in the heart of the Son La hydroelectric reservoir, Cam Lo Tu covers nearly 14 hectares, centered around a complex of temples and pagodas restored and built in the traditional style. With its ideal location on high hills overlooking Quynh Nhai Lake, the site embodies the "mountain-backed, water-facing" style, highlighting the vast beauty of the lake and the surrounding pristine natural landscape. At the center of Cam Lo Tu are the Linh Son Thuy Tu Temple and the Lady Han Temple, which carry hundreds of years of glorious history and the spiritual traditions of the Thai ethnic group.
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The spiritual and cultural space of Quynh Nhai Cam Lo Tu (Quynh Nhai commune, Son La province).
Among them, Linh Son Thuy Tu Temple is a temple restored based on a shrine dedicated to the river god, mountain god, village and hamlet founders, and supernatural forces believed to have contributed to building and maintaining the peace of the villages and hamlets established before the 17th century. The ancient artifacts were brought here after the completion of the resettlement of people displaced by the Son La hydroelectric project and it was inaugurated in May 2012.
Besides the two main temples, the Quynh Nhai Cam Lo Tu Spiritual and Cultural Space is currently constructing and completing additional structures such as the Upper Pagoda, Middle Pagoda, Lower Pagoda, the Pen Tower, and other auxiliary facilities. Notably, within this complex of spiritual architectural structures is a 32-meter-tall statue of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, completed at the end of 2020. The statue is built high on a hilltop, its back against a sturdy limestone mountain range, overlooking the vast lake and sea, symbolizing protection and peace for the surrounding waters, creating a truly impressive scene in the Quynh Nhai lake area.
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In early spring, Quynh Nhai becomes a noteworthy spiritual tourism destination. Besides visiting temples to pray for peace, tourists can also immerse themselves in traditional festivals and vibrant activities organized by the district at the beginning of the year. The festival begins with the hair-washing ceremony on the 30th day of the Lunar New Year, associated with the story of the female general Nang Han of the Thai ethnic group. This ceremony symbolizes washing away all the misfortunes of the old year to welcome a new year filled with good fortune. The Nang Han Temple festival is held solemnly, attracting a large number of locals and tourists from all over to offer incense and pay respects, while also contributing to the preservation and promotion of the unique traditional cultural values of the Thai ethnic group.
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In the context of Son La's development today, the temple of Lady Han and the legend of the heroic female general of the past continue to affirm the enduring value of patriotism, self-reliance, and the aspiration for peace – noble qualities that have been, are, and will forever be the solid spiritual foundation for the sustainable development of the heroic Quynh Nhai region.
Thanh Phong – Le Hai