In the high mountains of Son La, where coffee plantations were once plagued by the worry of "bumper harvests leading to falling prices," one farmer has chosen a path of focusing on quality, technology, and brand building to bring Son La coffee beans to the global market. That farmer is Mr. Nguyen Xuan Thao, Director of the Bich Thao Son La Coffee Cooperative.
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Thanks to comprehensive innovations in varieties, processes, and technology, 97% of the cooperative's specialty coffee production is now exported to more than 20 countries..
Not originally from an agricultural background, Mr. Thao spent many years working in mechanics. However, the fluctuations in the coffee market during 2014-2015, when coffee prices hit record lows, caused him great concern.
Coffee farmers work hard all year round, but their income is insufficient to cover costs; coffee is mainly sold fresh, and they are completely dependent on traders. With that in mind, Mr. Thao began a persistent journey.
He studied specialty coffee production models both domestically and internationally, learning how to control quality from planting and cultivation to processing, roasting, and grinding. In 2017, the Bich Thao Son La Coffee Cooperative was established with 11 member households, initially covering only about 50 hectares with limited facilities. Instead of chasing quantity, the cooperative prioritized quality as its foundation.
Accordingly, the entire coffee growing area has been converted to organic farming, applying VietGAP and UTZ standards (standards to ensure responsible production of tea, cocoa, and coffee); the harvesting and processing procedures are strictly controlled to preserve the natural flavor of Arabica coffee beans from the high mountains. Leveraging his mechanical expertise, Mr. Thao proactively invested in and improved machinery, gradually building a closed-loop processing line.
In 2021, the cooperative invested in a modern processing plant with a capacity of 20 tons of green coffee beans per day, equipped with European and American technology sorting and color sorting machines, along with roasting, grinding, and storage lines that meet standards. Specialty processing methods such as anaerobic fermentation and extended natural drying are applied, helping the coffee retain its deep aroma and long-lasting aftertaste, creating a unique mark for Son La coffee.
Mr. Nguyen Bich Thao stated: Alongside technological innovation, the cooperative focuses on selecting high-quality varieties, especially Arabica Bourbon. As a result, the value of coffee beans has increased significantly. Many of the cooperative's green coffee beans and roasted/ground coffee products have achieved high prices in the export market, affirming the effectiveness of its approach of prioritizing quality.
To date, approximately 97% of the cooperative's specialty coffee production is exported to more than 20 countries such as Japan, Germany, the United States, and South Korea. Bich Thao Coffee is also one of the first brands in Son La to be granted the right to use the geographical indication "Son La Coffee" and has achieved a 5-star national OCOP rating.
The number of households participating in production linkages increased from a few hundred to over a thousand in a short period. The cooperative also regularly collaborates with local authorities to organize training and technology transfer, helping people change their mindset from fragmented production to value chain linkages.
Notably, the cooperative has persistently pursued a circular economy model, recycling all coffee by-products into organic fertilizer, reducing production costs, protecting the environment, and safeguarding the health of its workers. As a result, profits from specialty coffee are many times higher than with traditional methods, and production is becoming increasingly sustainable.
In a farewell conversation, Mr. Nguyen Bich Thao confided: "I have set a goal to continue replanting and expanding the area of high-quality coffee, aiming for reduced-emission production, stable output, and export value. Because for us, coffee farming is not just an economic matter, but also a responsibility to preserve the brand of Vietnamese agricultural products, contributing to bringing Son La coffee further and affirming its rightful position in the international market."
Text and photos: QUOC TUAN