Ta Xua Shan Tuyet tea product. Photo: Truong Son

Spanning fromTa XuaFrom On Oc, Ban Leo to Muong Bang, Suoi Leo, each region with ancient tea trees possesses its own unique character, but all are valuable genetic resources that contribute to the protection of the primary forest ecosystem, create sustainable livelihoods, serve experiential tourism, and preserve a part of the cultural identity of the ethnic minorities in the highlands.

The "witnesses" of the mountains and forests

The ancient tea plantations in Son La cover thousands of hectares, mainly distributed at altitudes from 1,000m to nearly 2,000m above sea level – where the climate is cool, foggy year-round, and still retains areas of natural forest. These Shan Tuyet tea trees, with their moss-covered trunks, plump, green buds, and leaves covered in white downy hairs, range in age from several decades to hundreds of years, growing entirely naturally under the forest canopy, without any fixed rows.

In Ta Xua commune, clusters of ancient tea trees are scattered across many highland villages such as Be, Chung Chinh, Lang Sang, and Ta Xua village. Among them, a cluster of 200 ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees was recognized as a Vietnamese Heritage Tree in 2019, with ages ranging from 200 to nearly 300 years. These tea trees grow naturally under the canopy of the old-growth forest and have been preserved and protected by the local community as a shared asset for generations.

In On Oc village, Chieng Hac commune, a cluster of ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees grows precariously, stretching along the slopes of Pha Det mountain. Many trees are over 15 meters tall, with white moss-covered trunks; harvesting requires climbing up each branch step by step. The tea here has large buds, big leaves, and a wide canopy.

In Leo village, Van Ho commune, over 6 hectares of ancient tea trees, growing at an altitude of over 1,800 meters above sea level, are still preserved in the natural forest after many years of neglect. The ancient tea trees of Leo village are distinguished by their snow-white tea buds, unique flavor, clear green liquor, mild astringency, and sweet aftertaste.

In particular, in Suoi Leo village, Muong Coi commune, the people are preserving over 1,000 high-altitude Shan Tuyet tea trees. Many of these trees are so large that it takes 2-3 people to encircle them, with wide canopies and roots deeply embedded in the rocky mountainside. According to the elders in the village, these tea trees have existed for hundreds of years, closely linked to the long-term settlement of the ethnic community here.

In Muong Bang commune, there are currently about 11,000 ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees distributed across the villages of Lan, Kieng, and Pap. These tea trees, discovered before 1958, are considered an important indigenous genetic resource, forming the foundation for sustainable tea development linked to the livelihoods of the local people.

A common characteristic of the ancient tea-growing regions of Son La is their close connection to natural forests, with tea plants scattered throughout the area. Tea only thrives when the forest remains; therefore, preserving tea is also about preserving the forest and protecting the habitat.

People in Bản Bẹ village, Tà Xùa commune, process Shan Tuyet tea using traditional methods. Photo: Trường Sơn

From humble village drinks to sustainable livelihoods

Since ancient times, people have harvested the leaves of ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees to brew as daily drinks or to give as gifts during festivals and holidays. Afterward, they would take the tea to neighboring communes and districts to exchange it for rice, cloth, and other goods – a common form of bartering when trade was still difficult. The harvested tea is then roasted manually in cast-iron pans, placed in bags or fresh bamboo tubes for preservation, helping to maintain its fragrant flavor for a long time. This simple method has formed a unique tea tradition of the highland people.

For a long time, due to the underestimation of its economic value, many ancient tea-growing areas, including On Oc and Muong Bang, were abandoned, becoming grazing grounds for cattle, or even cut down to make way for other crops such as corn and cassava. Facing the risk of the precious tea variety disappearing, from 2010 to 2020, several businesses and cooperatives collaborated with local authorities and residents to restore these tea-growing areas. To date, many products made from ancient Shan Tuyet tea have been certified as OCOP 3-star and 4-star at the provincial level. Products made from ancient Shan Tuyet tea are sold at prices ranging from 600,000 VND to 3 million VND per kilogram, depending on the type, such as Shan Tuyet tea, green tea, Thien green tea, white tea, and green tube tea.

In Leo village (Van Ho commune) and Suoi Leo village (Muong Coi commune), people have begun harvesting ancient tea trees selectively, avoiding over-harvesting, and selling the produce to businesses for processing into specialty tea. As a result, the tea is not only preserved but also provides a stable source of income for many highland households. In Muong Bang, the commune government supports people in learning tea processing techniques and investing in small-scale processing, gradually increasing the value of the product and helping local tea gain a foothold in the market.

Preserving ancient tea trees means preserving the forest and maintaining the brand of the highland region.

Unlike other tea-growing regions with concentrated plantations, the ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees of Son La thrive thanks to the organic relationship between tea, forest, and people. Therefore, local authorities have determined that tea development must be linked to forest conservation and the preservation of cultural identity.

In Ta Xua commune, efforts are being made to protect the populations.ancient tea treesAmong them, 200 tea trees have been recognized as Vietnamese Heritage Trees, a project being implemented in parallel with the goal of brand development. Mr. Do Van Xiem - Chairman of the People's Committee of Ta Xua commune - said: “The locality has identified ancient Shan Tuyet tea as a characteristic product. In the coming time, the commune will continue to strictly protect the ancient tea tree clusters, while maintaining and developing the Ta Xua Shan Tuyet tea brand, enhancing the product's value, attracting businesses to invest in processing and developing tourism associated with tea.”

Not only in Ta Xua, but also in On Oc, Ban Leo, and Suoi Leo, the people have unanimously agreed not to cut down forests to plant tea, and to harvest using proper techniques that do not harm the trees. Tea is harvested entirely by hand, selecting only "one bud and two leaves," ensuring both quality and extending the lifespan of the trees.

From the cloud-covered Ta Xua to the ancient Suoi Leo forest, from the Pha Det peak of On Oc to the Ban Leo tea forest, each region with its ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees is a piece of Son La's "green gold" - an asset that not only has economic value but is also a natural and cultural heritage that needs to be preserved for the long term.