People of the Dao Tien ethnic group, dressed in traditional costumes, participate in cultural activities and festivals.

The Dao ethnic group in Son La province numbers approximately 24,418 people, accounting for 1.76% of the province's total population. They mainly reside in the Van Ho, Moc Chau, and Phu Yen areas, comprising three subgroups: the Red Dao, the Coin Dao, and the Quan Chet Dao, each with its own distinct cultural characteristics. Among them, the traditional clothing of the Coin Dao is notable for its beeswax printing art on the skirts, its distinctive patterns, decorative silver coins, and sophisticated color combinations.

Creating a complete Dao Tien outfit is an elaborate process, carried out by the skillful hands of Dao Tien women. From growing cotton, spinning yarn, weaving fabric, to cultivating indigo, dyeing, embroidering, patchwork, color coordination, and silver embellishment... each step requires patience and meticulousness. The indigo dyeing process alone can take dozens of days to achieve the characteristic, long-lasting dark blue-black color. To create the patterns on the dress, beeswax is melted at the appropriate temperature. The women use tools to dip into the wax and meticulously create each line on the fabric. The fabric is then dyed with indigo multiple times. Once the color is desired, the fabric is boiled in water to melt the wax, revealing the ivory-white patterns on the indigo background.

Dao Tien women meticulously embroider patterns onto their traditional clothing.

What's special is that Dao Tien women don't need pattern templates. The patterns are memorized and passed down from grandmother to mother, and from mother to daughter. From around the age of 10, girls are taught by their grandmothers and mothers how to spin yarn, weave fabric, dye with indigo, embroider, and create patterns, from simple operations to more difficult techniques. By adulthood, each girl can make her own clothing to wear at festivals, weddings, and other important occasions in her life.

Ms. Ban Thi Thanh, from Pieng Sang residential group, Van Son ward, shared: "Making a traditional costume cannot be done quickly, because each step requires meticulous attention. My grandmother and mother taught me how to make costumes from a young age, starting with simple tasks and gradually learning to create more complex patterns. For the Dao Tien people, making a costume with one's own hands is something to be very proud of, because it contains both one's own efforts and the cultural values ​​passed down from grandparents and parents."

Dao Tien women showcase embroidery techniques and the decoration of patterns on traditional clothing.

While the indigo color and intricate patterns contribute to the beauty of the clothing, the silver coins are the distinctive identifying mark of the Dao Tien people. Silver is attached to headscarves, children's hats, and the back of the collar. According to traditional beliefs, silver symbolizes prosperity and good fortune; it also signifies protection of health and a wish for the protection of deities and ancestors. The coin motif represents the aspiration for a prosperous life. The waves evoke the source of life and the journey of ancestors. Plants symbolize the vitality of the mountains and forests. Images of birds, dogs, and sheep are associated with the legend of Ban Vuong. The sun symbol represents belief in deities...

Mr. Luong Van Yeu, a graduate in ethnology and a frequent researcher of the cultures of ethnic groups in Son La province, said: "The value of Dao Tien traditional clothing lies not only in its exquisite beauty but also in the entire system of folk knowledge it contains. Especially noteworthy are the silver coins attached to the back of the collar and the motifs associated with the legends and beliefs of the Dao people. Therefore, preserving the clothing must be linked to preserving the skills and knowledge of how to make it. This heritage needs to be practiced regularly to continue being passed on within the community."

The traditional costumes of the Dao Tien ethnic group will be displayed at the Moc Chau Culture and Tourism Week 2026.

In modern life, traditional clothing is no longer used as frequently as before. However, at festivals, weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, and cultural and tourism events, the indigo color is still present, helping visitors understand more about the cultural beauty of the Dao Tien people. Even more encouraging is that the art of decorating traditional Dao Tien clothing has been included in the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage according to Decision No. 469/QD-BVHTTDL dated March 6, 2023, of the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. This recognition affirms the value of a unique folk art form and highlights the need to continue preserving the knowledge and skills that have made this heritage.

Amidst modern life, the indigo color remains present on the traditional clothing of the Dao Tien people. Silver coins still jingle during festivals. Needles and threads continue to be passed down from grandmothers and mothers to young girls. Each completed garment represents another instance of practicing folk knowledge, continuing community memories, and preserving and promoting valuable traditional cultural values.

Text and photos: Ngoc Dung