From the lush green moss of the rocks, a specialty dish of the highlands is born. Photo: Khanh Linh

One late autumn morning, Mr. Lo Van Van (from Sop Cop commune, Son La province) took his bamboo basket down to the stream near his house to look for moss on rocks.

Water flows over the rocks, beneath which are patches of soft green moss, swaying gently with the current.

According to Mr. Van, not all mosses can be used as food.

Experienced people usually choose young moss growing in clear, steady streams, avoiding areas near living spaces or livestock grazing. Old moss is often tough, contains a lot of sediment, and does not retain its natural sweetness.

These vibrant green mosses, growing on rocks, are often called "rock sprouts" in the Northwest region of Vietnam. Photo: Khanh Linh

"Good quality moss is green, has soft fibers, and doesn't feel slimy or mushy to the touch. Each time you harvest, only take a portion, leaving the roots so the moss can continue to grow," Mr. Van shared.

The moss clumps, freshly taken from the stream, still contain sand, small pebbles, and decaying leaves. This is also an ingredient that requires a lot of preparation time.

Mr. Van put the moss in a basket, picked out any impurities, and washed it several times with clean water. Then, the moss was placed on a flat surface, and he used a pestle or wooden stick to gently pound it to remove any remaining dirt clinging to the fibers.

The cleaned moss is squeezed dry, chopped finely, and then mixed with salt, chili peppers, ginger, lemongrass, herbs, and a moderate amount of mắc khén (a type of spice) and dổi seeds.

The spices not only mask the pungent smell but also create the distinctive aroma of the Northwest mountains and forests.

Rock moss is widely sold in the mountainous region of Son La. Photo: Khanh Linh

The marinated moss is wrapped tightly in dong leaves or banana leaves, then tied with string. The moss package is then placed on hot coals, turned regularly to prevent the outer layer of leaves from burning.

As the leaves begin to char, the heat blends the spices inside, releasing an aroma that fills the kitchen.

According to Mr. Van, when grilling moss, you shouldn't use too high a flame. If the outside burns quickly while the moss inside is not yet cooked, the dish will easily become dry and retain a fishy smell.

The cooks usually patiently grill it over low heat until the leaf wrapping softens and releases its aroma before opening it to check.

Cooked moss is dark green, soft but not mushy. When eaten, diners can taste the refreshing flavor of the moss, the mild spiciness of chili, the fragrant numbness of mắc khén (a type of spice), and a hint of dổi seeds at the end. This dish is often served with sticky rice or hot rice.

Anh Văn recounted that, in the past, moss was a seasonal dish in the meals of many families in the highlands.

Whenever they went down to the stream to collect moss, the adults would often take the children along, helping them find the ingredients while also showing them how to identify clean water sources. Upon returning, the family members would gather around the stove, some washing the moss, others grinding the spices, and still others preparing the leaves for wrapping.

Today, grilled moss has become a dish that intrigues many tourists. This ingredient, which grows naturally at the bottom of streams, undergoes several processing steps before being served as a delicacy.

However, for Mr. Van's family, the value of the dish lies not in its novelty but in the memories of trips to the stream and meals shared around the fireplace.

"There are many delicious dishes now, but my family still occasionally makes grilled moss. The adults miss the old taste, and the children learn about a dish from their hometown," Mr. Van said.