From the tough, dried buffalo hide, the people of the Northwest highlands create a unique dish.
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From dried, tough buffalo hides, people in the highlands have created a unique dish. Photo: Huong Ngan
Knowing that he had guests from afar visiting, Mr. Lo Van Son (Ngoc Chien commune, Son La province) took down a piece of buffalo hide that had been hanging in the kitchen attic for many months to prepare a salad.
The skin is curled up, dry, and covered in a dark brown color, making it difficult for those seeing it for the first time to imagine that it is an ingredient for a dish served to guests.
According to Mr. Son, in the past, whenever the family slaughtered a buffalo for holidays, Tet (Lunar New Year), or major events, the meat was divided among siblings and relatives. The buffalo hide was not discarded but cleaned, cut into pieces, and hung in the kitchen attic.
The daily heat and smoke from the wood fire gradually dry the hide, creating a distinctive aroma and helping to preserve it for longer. When the family has guests or wants to change up the dish, the hide is taken down and prepared.
"Looking at the dried pork skin, many people think it's inedible. But if you know how to soak, boil, and slice it, it becomes a dish with a unique crispness and chewiness," Sơn explained.
To prepare the salad, he heated the piece of pork skin over a fire, then scraped off the soot and any burnt areas on the outside.
The leather is washed repeatedly, then soaked in water to soften it. This process can take several hours, depending on the thickness and storage time.
After soaking, the buffalo hide is put into a pot and boiled. Mr. Son said that the cook must check it frequently, because if the hide is not cooked enough, it will be hard and difficult to slice; while boiling it for too long will make it lose its crispness.
A good piece of leather should have a soft outer layer, a slightly translucent color, but still retain a firm, slightly chewy texture when bitten.
The boiled pork skin is removed from the water, allowed to cool, and then sliced into thin strips. This step requires a sharp knife and skill. The thinner the strips, the easier they absorb the seasoning, and the less chewy they are when eaten.
The seasoning includes garlic, chili peppers, herbs, coriander, roasted peanuts, and crushed mắc khén (a type of spice). Instead of just using lemon or vinegar, Mr. Sơn uses sour bamboo shoot juice to create a refreshing and mild flavor for the dish.
Bamboo shoot juice is slowly poured over the sliced pork skin, then mixed with vegetables and spices. The smoky aroma lingering on the skin, combined with the sourness of the bamboo shoots, the spiciness of the chili peppers, and the subtle tingling sensation of the mắc khén spice, creates a unique and unmistakable flavor.
When served, the yellow strips of buffalo hide are interspersed with the green of herbs and crushed roasted peanuts. The hide is crispy and chewy but not hard; the more you chew, the more you appreciate the nutty flavor and smoky aroma.
According to Mr. Son, in the past, buffalo skin salad was mainly served on occasions when the family had special events or was hosting distinguished guests. Because it took a long time to soak, boil, and slice the skin, the dish was usually prepared well in advance.
While the adults prepare the food, the children sit and observe, gradually learning how to choose spices and check the tenderness of the skin.
"Nowadays, food is more abundant, but my family still makes this dish for family gatherings. It's both a meal and a way for our children and grandchildren to learn more about traditional flavors," Sơn shared.