In Chieng Yen commune, Van Ho district, Son La province, there is a heritage agricultural village - Buot village, the first tourism model associated with preserving indigenous agricultural knowledge in our country. In that space almost separated from modern life, we seem to be immersed in pure nature, curious, eager with ancient agricultural practices.

The cool stream winding around the village is the children's favorite place.

About heritage farming village

On National Highway 6 to the Northwest, just past Mai Chau district (Hoa Binh province), touching Van Ho land (Son La province); the small concrete road gradually decreases in altitude, winding through the forest canopy. The further you go, the more you see the forest trees crowded together, layer upon layer; wild trees, tangled vines, occasionally you see a path, making the harsh summer sun seem to fall on the national highway. The air gradually cools down, the cool, pure air of the old forest gradually permeates the senses. After about 2km, you will reach Buot village. The village is nestled in the valley, blending into the forest canopy.

The village has only about 60 houses. The Thai and Muong people have settled here for a long time. The Thai and Muong people are communities that live by water, so it is easy to understand why it is called Buot village (a mispronunciation of “wet”). The stream winding around the village and the old forest are the first criteria for Buot village to achieve the title of “heritage agricultural village”.

The Buot village lives in harmony, following the stream and the forest. In the summer, there is nothing better than standing on the bridge leading to the village and jumping into the clear blue water. Those who cannot swim can choose a shallow section of the stream to wade or rent a kayak from the Dong Rung Cooperative - where the villagers encourage each other to do tourism.

The stream has a lot of fish and snails, but you can only catch snails, not fish, because for decades, Buot village has not only preserved the forest trees and vegetation, but also established a village covenant to protect the fish stream - anyone who catches fish in the stream and is discovered by the villagers will have to pay a fine.

In Buot village, you can bathe in the stream and in the forest at the same time.

On chilly days, walk from the center of Buot village, until your body starts to heat up, then go to Bo Am hot spring. With only 30,000 VND/ticket, you can immerse yourself in the warm, clear water. The spring flows into 3 levels, each level has a different temperature, so you can choose according to the outside temperature as well as each person's body temperature.

All three levels of the stream seem to be surrounded by nature: on one side is a cliff with fern fields and lush low-lying vegetation. The more you look up, the more you see the green old forest. At eye level - on this side is green fields. In the distance are stilt houses thatched with leaves and grass. The streams are also cleverly "banked" by the locals with pebbles. In that space, you feel like you are a part of nature.

The primeval forest here is also an ideal choice for “forest bathing”. While leisurely walking in the forest or standing under the mossy old tree, everyone quietly watches each tree canopy, listens to the rustling sound of leaves mixed with the wind, and the chirping of birds near and far.

The very forest atmosphere seems to take over the senses, reminding us of the explanation of biologist EOWilson. He believes that the need to “forest bathe” comes from the natural evolutionary process of humans. We are part of the natural world. Our rhythm is the rhythm of nature. And the love of the natural world is in our genes, passed down from generation to generation.

Blend into local life

Campfire night, xoe dance with the sisters in the village

Because this is a border area, the local Thai and Muong people are a bit of a mix of the Thai and Muong people in Hoa Binh; and a bit of the Thai and Muong people in Son La. But that is the characteristic of the indigenous community. At first, you may be a bit disappointed or disappointed because very few people in Buot village wear their traditional costumes (except for the elderly). But when interacting and talking with the people, you will see that their typical warmth and hospitality are still intact. Notably, even though it is the fifth year of doing community tourism, the villagers have not been affected by the negative side of this smokeless industry.

During the day, if you don't bathe in the stream or the forest; don't go see Nang Tien waterfall or soak in Bo Am hot spring, you can stay at the cooperative headquarters to learn how to make snail cakes, cook five-color sticky rice, or follow the women in the village to the rice fields, tea plantations, vegetable gardens...

After 5 years of returning to farming in the way of their ancestors, the ecosystem in the fields of Ban Buot has gradually revived. All kinds of worms, butterflies, frogs, toads, iron worms, long tong, ro ron… have appeared as in childhood memories. The capricious freshwater shrimps, which could not survive in the slightest bit of dirty water, have now crowded in the canals winding around the rice fields.

Learn to bake with moms and grandmas

Here, many women are not only skilled farmers but also tour guides and chefs of Dong Rung Tourism Cooperative. Some women are also owners of homestays and tourism services. I was surprised to see Ha Thi Duyen cooking in the kitchen of Dong Rung Cooperative because in the morning I saw her tanned face and smile, nimbly raking rice grass. At night, when only the village center - the cooperative headquarters - was lit up, the women were graceful in their com shirts and pieu scarves, gracefully dancing. When the campfire was blazing, their sincere and rustic smiles added to the atmosphere, evoking more intimacy. Both the host and the guests held hands and walked rhythmically with the xoe dance, then together they bounced their feet in the sap dance.

The villagers called each other to attend in great numbers. On their innocent faces were constant smiles, and their eyes sparkled with fire. For everyone, every night of the Xoe performance welcoming guests was full of hospitality. It had been several years, but every night of the Xoe performance, the women and mothers were present. The children followed their mothers and grandmothers; their eyes were innocent and clear.

Every meal, guests are amazed by the sisters' culinary skills. Everyone asks what kind of rice is used to cook the rice, which has a rich flavor, is just the right amount of sticky, and is not soggy when served with soup like many other sticky rices on the market. The sisters boast: "The rice is from the production team."

To restore this native rice variety, the cooperative spent a lot of effort. Only when food and foodstuffs for tourism came from the cooperative's production groups did people realize how valuable native crops were. I still remember when leaving the village center, Ms. Ha Thi Duyen ran after me, out of breath, and shoved some spices into my hand: "Here are the vegetables you asked about yesterday. I don't know their common names. I just hope they are suitable for the plains."

Ban Buot has left me with such warmth, enthusiasm, clarity and intimacy!

Uong Ngoc